Bruichladdich

22-year-old Bruichladdich. This must be from one of the very lightly peated (5ppm, I believe) batches made in the first few years after the distillery reopened in 2001.

The nose is super-clean and fresh, with green melon, candied peel, a thin slice of banana, and a slate-y sort of minerality. I also get baled hay and touches of coal tar in the background.

As usual with Bruichladdich this swims well, and with water I get green grapes, croissant, caramel and a really fantastic sort of herbal smokiness with bay and basil. 

On the palate it’s fat, oily and citrussy. A big wave of mandarin at first, with a little spritz of passionfruit juice, then touches of almost liquorice-y tar before a really maritime development. Big briney oysters with lemon in fact! The finish is long and a bit waxy, with lots of sea water, citrus and something elusively phenolic.

After trying this I’m starting to wish Bruichladdich continued in this style. You don’t really feel the peat, but the coastal side of the distillate is really amplified, and that works beautifully with all the fabulous citrus. It’s a really gorgeous and elegant dram, and quintessentially Islay.

This first-fill barrel produced only 181 bottles at 56.7%.